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Pronghorn antelope all but outnumber people in wide-open WYOMING
, the ninth largest but least populous state in the union, with
just 460,000 residents. Above all, this is classic cowboy country
- the inspiration behind Shane, The Virginian and countless
other Western novels - where the days of the open range are
evoked by rodeos, country-and-western dance halls and ranchwear
stores. The state emblem, seen everywhere, is a hat-waving cowboy
astride a bucking bronco.
Northern Wyoming is the prime tourist goal, with well over
three million per year heading for the simmering geothermal
landscape of Yellowstone National Park , and the craggy mountain
vistas of the adjacent, and equally outstanding, Grand Teton
National Park . Wedged in between Yellowstone and South Dakota
to the east are the helter-skelter Bighorn Mountains , likeable
Old West towns such as Buffalo , and the otherworldly outcrop
of Devils Tower .
The meager supply of buffalo in early Wyoming caused fierce
intertribal wars over hunting grounds and kept the Native American
population down to around 10,000. However, Sioux, Cheyenne and
Blackfoot combined to inflict notable defeats on the US Army
before it could clear the way for pioneer settlement in the
1870s. The cattle ranchers and sheep-farming homesteaders who
followed engaged in violent range wars over grazing rights to
the wiry grasslands.
Unlikely as it may seem, this rowdy, heavily male-dominated
state was the first to grant women the vote in 1869 - a full
half-century before the rest of the country, on the grounds
that the enfranchisement of women would attract settlers and
increase the population, thereby hastening statehood. A year
later Wyoming appointed the country's first women jurors, and
the "Equality State" elected the first female US governor
in 1924.
The absence of rivers to irrigate farmland has effectively
put a lid on agricultural and population growth. These days,
any weather-beaten, denim-clad stranger is more likely to be
an oil roustabout than a genuine cowboy, fuel and mineral extraction
having replaced livestock as the mainstay of the economy in
the early part of the twentieth century.
Greyhound buses operate along I-80 through the south. The rest
of the state is covered only patchily by regional bus companies;
it takes considerable time and planning to get where you want
to go, so your own car is definitely the best option. Jackson
has the state's largest airport , though flights also go to
Casper and Cheyenne. Cycling across northern Wyoming can be
great fun, although if you're crossing the Bighorns you'll need
to pick your routes carefully, as roads here have incredibly
steep gradients.
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