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NEVADA is without doubt the most desolate state in the US,
consisting largely of endless tracts of bleak, empty desert.
Its flat sagebrush plains are cut intermittently by angular
mountain ranges, and the lack of rainfall or fertile soil has
ensured its maintenance as untouched wilderness. Apart from
the huge acreages given over to mining and to grazing cattle
and sheep, much of Nevada is under the control of the military
, who use it to test aircraft and weapons systems, including
Stealth fighters and atomic bombs. Dozens of intriguing small
communities are scattered around the state, some showing signs
of strong Basque influence. Many more are decrepit roadside
ghost towns, often little more than a gas-station-cum-general-store,
flanked by a saloon and perhaps a brothel - Nevada is the only
US state not to have outlawed prostitution , though it is illegal
in Las Vegas.
Though millions of people pass through on their way to and
from California, there's only one real reason why anyone ever
visits Nevada, and that is to gamble : as soon as you cross
the state border, you'll be attacked by a 24-hour onslaught
of neon signs and gimmicky architecture, each advertising the
best odds and biggest jackpots, nowhere more than in the surreal
oasis of Las Vegas . Even the smaller and more down-to-earth
settlements of Reno and state capital Carson City revolve around
the casino trade. At least the casinos' energetic pursuit of
passing trade keeps rooms and especially food inexpensive, so
the towns make good places to break a long journey - and, with
Nevada's relaxed marriage and divorce laws, make or break a
relationship.
As there's almost nothing in Nevada outside of Las Vegas and
Reno, it's hardly surprising that getting around the state's
vast empty spaces is nearly impossible without a car. Las Vegas
is no longer served by Amtrak, but Reno still welcomes daily
trains between San Francisco and Salt Lake City; both Las Vegas
and Reno have airports.
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