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When cotton was king - and slavery was as yet unchallenged
- MISSISSIPPI was the nation's fifth wealthiest state. Since
the Civil War, however, it has been the poorest, its dependence
on cotton now a handicap that makes it victim to the vagaries
of the commodities market. Widespread poverty has long endured
alongside pockets of enormous riches, and white Mississippi
was notorious for violent resistance to black political participation.
Not until the early Seventies did the church bombings and murders
come to an end, and no one could claim that racial tension has
ceased to exist. To some extent, the economy has regenerated
since Mississippi's first Republican governor in a century,
Kirk Fordice , decided to legalize gambling; the giant casinos
may be lumbering eyesores that seem pitifully out of place on
the sweeping Delta flatlands, but they're sucking considerable
revenues across the state line from Memphis, Tennessee. Even
today, you only have to take a detour down some rural side road
to encounter pockets of truly scandalous black poverty, but
with the profits from gaming being ploughed into education in
Mississippi's poorest counties, the state may finally manage
to shake off its appalling reputation for inequality.
While the major city is the capital, Jackson , historic river
towns like Vicksburg and Natchez provide good reasons to stay
off the interstates, and blues fans will need no encouragement
to go exploring sleepy Delta settlements such as Alligator or
Yazoo City.
Although Greyhound serves most of Mississippi, including the
Delta, only along the coastal stretch are services at all frequent.
Jackson has the only airport of any size, while Amtrak trains
from New Orleans head north to Memphis by way of Jackson and
Greenwood; northeast to Atlanta, passing through a succession
of unexciting small towns; and along the coast to Florida, stopping
at Biloxi. Trips on the Mississippi itself are run on expensive
luxury cruisers.
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